Muhamad Ali Sadpara’ (born 1976) is a Pakistani mountaineer. He was part of the team which successfully achieved the first ever winter summit on Nanga Parbat in 2016. Both his teammates, Alex Txicon and Simone Moro, have gone on record stating that they could not have done it without Sadpara’s brilliance. He has successfully climbed four eight-thousanders in a calendar year and a total of eight in his career. His 20 year old son, Sajid Sadpara has also climbed K2 in 2019. They had teamed up with John Snorri for a joint K-2 Winter 2021 mission and they succeeded to summit K-2 on 5th Feb 2021.The attempt started on 24 January 2021 and several attempts were made till 3rd Feb. Sajid Sadpara had to return back from C-4 due to malfunction of oxygen regulator.Ali Sadpara made history by summiting the eight-thousander without Oxygen.
He was born in a village, Sadpara, in periphery of Skardu city, extreme north of Pakistan. He started his career as porter. With a natural passion for mountaineering, he started climbing high peaks with expeditions.
He started as a high porter and now he has climbed 8 of 14 Eight-thousanders. After working as High Altitude Porters with many expeditions, he get a chance and first climb was Gasherbrum II in Karakoram.
List of mountains climbed:
Gasherbrum II (Pakistan) in 2006,
Spantik Peak (Pakistan) in 2006,
Nanga Parbat (Pakistan) in 2008,
Muztagh Ata (China) in 2008,
Nanga Parbat (Pakistan) in 2009,
Gasherbrum I (Pakistan) in 2010,
Nanga Parbat First Winter Ascent (Pakistan) in 2016,
Broad Peak (Pakistan) in 2017,
Nanga Parbat First Autumn Ascent (Pakistan) in 2017,
Pumori Peak First Winter Ascent (Nepal) in 2017,
K2 (Pakistan) in 2018,
Lhotse (Nepal) in 2019,
Makalu (Nepal) in 2019,
Manaslu (Nepal) in 2019,
K2 (Pakistan) Winter Summit 2021.
In 2015 his team tried to scale the Nanga Parbat in winter and was unsuccessful. They again tried in 2016 and summited the peak, and this resulted in the first ever winter summit of Nanga Parbat. He has climbed Nanga Parbat four times. In January 2018 Ali Sadpara teamed up with Alex Txikon, a Spanish mountaineer, and tried unsuccessfully, to summit Mount Everest in winter without any supplemental oxygen. In June 2018 he has been enlisted by Marc Batard to undertake a five year program known as “Beyond Mount Everest”. They plan to summit Nanga Parbat, K2 and Mount Everest in 2019, 2021 and 2022 respectively.
Courtesy : Wikipedia